Some of us were able to get a bit of rest following dinner but most were anxious and thinking about what “kit” we’d need for the last climb. We all knew that our head torches needed new batteries and that it would be extremely cold near the summit. But no one really knew for sure how many layers would keep them comfortable and whether a Down jacket would be needed in addition. Too many layers and we would be too hot whilst climbing. Too few layers and the unbearable cold (as low as -15C) might make the effort futile. Water was going to be key to success but it is a well known fact that the tubing from the “camelback” water reservoir freezes at this altitude and temperature.

We left our tents to gather and were told not to pack up our sleeping bags etc… In case we needed to come down the mountain quickly and abandon the climb.

We walked in single file out of the camp area and were all breathing at a rapid rate to keep our oxygen levels manageable. We had been measuring our oxygen sats using a portable finger probe for the whole of the trip, provided courtesy of Mo(A) for the purpose of what is inevitably flawed altitude research. By the summit night, at Karango camp, most readings were around 80-90%. Some as low as 79%! Our resting heart rates were also on the higher side.

And we set off, laiden with dexamethosone, acetazolamide, painkillers and immodium (D&V up that mountain would not be recommended).

The head guide placed an assistant guide every 3rd climber or so and the pace to begin with was expectedly slow; after all none of our acclimatisation trips took us above 4600m and here we are trying to brave the remaining 1300m in a steep ascent, freezing weather and pitch black surroundings.

Two things became rapidly clear to all of us, even allowing for the temporary hypoxic insanity some of us suffered:

Firstly, we were going quite slow and got over taken a dozen times by other groups…… Looking upwards meant all we could see is a caterpillar of head torches disappearing into the distance. Does not really leave you with anything other than fear of failure!

Secondly, there are those amongst us who could climb and those that simply couldn’t. Take Julian Barker for example: within 2 hours he turned into a ruthless monster of a climber shouting at the top of his voice “you are too slow”. “Move out of the way”. “We are freezing our bo****ks down here” and he proceeded to overtake everybody in his way…. Some of us felt the urge to keep up with him only to suffer panic attacks, acute dizziness from hyperventilation. Needless to say, the group soon turned into three: the elitists at the front, the tail enders and the really really slow coaches at the back who were almost “calling it a day” but only strong will power kept everyone going to the Uhuru Peak. The summit porters and guides were very helpful and took some of the day sacks off the weary climbers (even though hypoxic stubbornness made some initially refuse to take on the needed help!, by “some” we mean specifically a certain professor who was deluded into thinking he was invincible ). The sun started to rise just as we were reaching Stella Point. This gave new hope to all. We could finally see the end in sight. There were some climbers from other teams who were being rushed back down the mountain with clear signs of altitude sickness. They seemed completely oblivious to their surroundings and were being helped down by Summit guides or porters.

At the top, it was breathtaking…Literally….We reached the summit somewhere between 8-8.30am. Our O2 saturations were somewhere in the region of 60-70% and we certainly knew it.

It was worth it! Pictures were taken and the happiness in all those who were successful was clear. At this time point, no one was bothered by the concept of a long walk down.

Yet it was a very very long walk down!! Some simply skidded their way down, others limped with sore knees, not to mention some who were piggybacked downhill. Seriously, it felt like eternity on the way down. We returned to Barafu camp by 1pm to get a few hours rest before continuing our descent at 3.30pm to Millennium camp at 3700m. We finally got to Millennium camp by 6-7pm and had a well earned dinner. The atmosphere at camp was now on a high although very much an exhausted group.

We got into Barafu camp by early afternoon but it was always going to be difficult to get any rest before the assault on the summit later that night.

A number of the team were feeling unwell with the altitude but managed to control symptoms with a cocktail of medication!

Dinner was being served early at 5.30pm to allow us all to try and sleep before the start of our final push around 11.30pm.

There were bones scattered along the route which Nick thought were human remains. However it was made clear to us by our Head Guide, Heaveny, that these were the remains of baby elephants. So Nick’s days as CSI Kilimanjaro are over!

Headed to Shira 2 Huts at 3800m. A few of us were beginning to feel unwell with the altitude that night but were pleased to arrive at camp with all the tents erected and food on it’s way.

However, it was not pleasant outside today with rain being light at first and then getting heavier as day progressed. We were already wet from yesterday and hadn’t fully dried and not were soaked again and cold. We walked through the forest to Shira 1 camp at an altitude of 3500m and were glad when we arrived. Again some of the porters struggled to get there ahead of us and it was a little while before we could get into tents. Morale was getting low and so was the oxygen in the air. There were only a handful of us suffering with mild altitude sickness. I had a mild headache and a couple of the team had felt a bit “light headed” for a short while.

Can’t say much more about this day except that we were all praying for some good weather to lift morale, give us some sights to see and allow our clothes to dry!

However…. We all got off from Hotel Zebra late because the bus that was going to take the “porters” (similar to Sherpas on Everest”) fan belt broke. Also, the catering for lunch were delayed resulting in a brief trip to a supermarket en route. All this resulted in a 2 hour delay for getting going today. You will soon see how this ended being a significant delay. Furthermore, the weather was really bad with heavy rain and mud tracks becoming mud slides. The 4×4 land cruisers took us as far as they could with moments when their off road capabilities were really tested. Finally one of the land cruisers fended up in a ditch. There were a few local lads who seemed to have expected this to happen and were ready with trowels and spades to help get us out. Although there were 5 or so young guys some aged under 15, it looked like 3 were giving instructions to 2 of their friends to do all the work.

We had to walk the rest of the way to the start around 1km and 300m in altitude. This took something in the region of 2 hours. We were now 4 or so hours later than schedule. The walk to “Big Tree” camp was treacherous and unpleasant. There were none of the spectacular views we were expecting because the rain clouds blocked all vision and we were simply concentrating on keeping both feet on the ground.

The result of the 4 hour delay was that it was getting close to nightfall and we were still 1-2 hours away from camp. As we were originally expecting to arrive at camp by 4pm in daylight, very few of the team carried their head torch in their “day sack” and left them in their main bags instead. We were then walking on muddy slopes with external tree roots, fallen trees and boulders to hamper our progress. Several team members slipped including myself. Steve held the record with 3 proper falls. Noni on the other hand was most prepared with 1 head torch and 2 hand torches in her day sack. Did she have a premonition of what today was like…..

Finally at camp and just relieved to have got their in pitch darkness we still had to hang around till the tents were erected. It was very cold and we were all soaked despite wearing waterproofs. I guess the waterproof were not really geared for this amount of rainfall or we hadn’t put them on properly. It seemed the porters had a difficult time with their bus and late start. Watching the porters carry the heavy bags, tents and other campsite equipment on their heads whilst walking the treacherous route was very humbling. It was clear that not all the porters were seasoned Kili porters as 1 or 2 of them were stuck en route and struggling to make progress. Our head guide, Heaveny, would try to help them but their was little for him to really do. They finally made their way to camp but quite a long time after us.

We had some dinner in a big tent consisting of cucumber soup followed by fish and chips. It tasted really good but I suspect it would not have been something we would order if we were out in restaurant. But what would you expect when out camping. After a lot of laughter and bravado we all got to our tents. There were 2 sleeping in a “3 man” tent although there was not really a lot of room.

Tent groupings were: Nick and Mo(B), Haifa and Jamie, Noni and Sarah, Martin and Mo(A), Steve and Julian, Andy and Jonathan.

Let’s hope tomorrow brings a better day for us all! At least help us dry our clothes…

All signed the register at Londorossi for going up Kilimanjaro and essentially signed a disclaimer for the trip ahead.

Weather is terrible. Raining and surprising cool. The rain is relentless and waterproofs are being tested.

We’re now about to start the Lemosho route but conditions are not ideal.

The cellular network is pretty poor from now on and so images will be loaded if signal improves or when we get back.

Whilst we all thought it was challenging and there were certainly some parts requiring basic rock climbing skills, it was very doable and even “fun”.

Martin found that the safest way up was to hug the rocks. There again he was the only team member to have updated his Will before setting off on this trip! We were making steady progress when we were confronted with our own porters scaling the wall with chairs, tables and other items on their heads. This put all our efforts into perspective!

We headed over to Marangu to see some tourist attractions. Firstly a historic site with a waterfall and a local fable about a woman who plummeted down the waterfall having been frightened by a leopard that was stalking her. The story was much more detailed than that but I can’t remember the rest.

Outdoor lunch was accompanied by a plethora of bugs. Not sure they are really bothered by the toxic repellant that we are constantly applying. Infact, I think it’s more toxic to humans.

From there we were sent down some caves underground where the Chagga tribe had hidden from Maasai tribe from the barren low lands. Health and safety would have been very excited by all the potential injury/ death traps that we passed by! However, the story of their “resistance” was very interesting.

Outside the room window was this sight when we woke up:

5 minutes later it looked like this:

It just seems to be getting bigger!

Ps. For those who commented and were concerned by an attack from Moshi monsters…. There were none yesterday. But it was dark and we wouldn’t have seen them if they were around.